Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article methods. Things You'll Need. Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Method 1. Decide what kind of shower you're going to install. Many showers installed are prefabricated units, making the installation a much easier do-it-yourself project for homeowners with basic carpentry and plumbing skills.
Shower stall kits come in two basic types: single-unit stalls and multi-panel stalls. Single unit stalls: The advantage of a single-unit stall is that the project is seamless and very fast. Essentially, you'll buy one ready-set unit that you'll secure to the walls and pipes, seal the seams, and you'll be ready to go. Multi-panel units: Multi-panel units consist of a separate shower pan and two or more individual panels that are glued into place and require each seam or joint to be individually sealed.
The advantage of this type of shower stall is that it is easier to handle one piece at a time if you are doing the installation alone. Measure to determine the location of the pipes. When you've purchased a shower stall of the appropriate size for your space, you need to mark where the pipe will stub out through the shower stall to attach to the appropriate elements on your kit, regardless of whether you're installing a multi-panel or single-panel shower.
Measure from the floor and from the corner of the walls in order to get accurate measurements. Draw a rough sketch of the wall with the plumbing and properly indicate those measurements on the sketch. For example: from the corner of the wall to the center of the water control valve might be 18 inches From the floor to the center of the valve is 36 inches Repeat this for all fixtures that will poke through the stall surface.
Whatever your measurements are, mark them on your drawing. With a marking pen or pencil, transfer those measurements to the back of the unit where it will be mounted over those plumbing fixtures. Assemble the necessary tools and materials.
Follow the instructions included with whatever shower kit you end up using for your project. Wall screws and other fasteners may be provided, or you may need to get them yourself. For most projects, you'll need the following tools and supplies: 2 or 4 feet 0. Sweep the floor area and walls to clear all loose debris prior to installing the shower unit. Use a broom or a vacuum to clear construction debris and dust from the area before moving forward with installation.
Use a paint scraper or a putty knife to peel off old caulking and adhesive, and make sure that you thoroughly dry out the area before installing the pan on the subfloor. If your subfloor is wet before you install the panels or the shower pan, you'll risk wood rot and other serious problems in the future.
You need to make sure the area is completely dry before you begin installing the shower components, whatever type of kit you have. Waterproof the walls. Install waterproof wallboard to the walls that will be covered by the shower stall. If it is a corner unit, it will usually be the two walls that form the corner.
Waterproof wallboard is a fiber or cement-based product, usually either gray, green or blue in color. Shower board can be attached to the wall studs with nails or screws. Seal the seams with silicone caulking. Never install a shower over regular drywall, as any moisture will eventually disintegrate the drywall. Method 2. Drill pilot holes on the unit. Go slowly and carefully so you don't crack the interior finish. This will make it easier when you use the saw to cut the larger holes for the fixtures.
Cut the hole for the fixture. The pilot bit on the hole saw will be larger than the holes you just drilled, which should keep the hole saw from skating around while you're cutting the hole.
Start cutting the hole from the inside of the shower stall. Put very little pressure against the surface while the hole saw is cutting, and let the saw do the work. Once the saw has cut nearly all the way through the shower stall wall, ease up on the pressure until the hole is complete. It is not unusual to have a little smoking or burning as you cut the hole, which is caused by friction. The hole saw will like be quite hot immediately after the hole is cut.
After a minute or two, remove the cutout piece from the hole saw. Place the unit into position and secure it in place. Most single-unit kits will come with wall screws and fasteners unique to the model and you'll need to defer to the instructions on the unit to secure the shower to the wall. Most units will have between three and six fasteners per wall. The flanges and handles, as well, will be unique to the model, usually quick-install models that will attach quickly and simply.
Read the following methods for more specific instructions regarding the installation of multi-panel components, if necessary. Seal all the seams with caulk. Once the unit is secure, use tub and tile caulking to seal all surfaces that come in contact with the walls and floor for a water-tight seal. Seal the flanges with a thin bead of caulking and allow to dry for 24 hours before exposing to water.
Mount the shower door. Shower doors on single-unit kits should snap right in, though models with sliding doors may be slightly more complex. Read the subsequent methods for more specific instructions regarding multi-panel installation of shower doors.
Method 3. Set the shower pan in position on the floor. Line up the drain hole in the bottom of the shower pan with the drain in the floor. Don't use any adhesives or fasteners, just fit it in and make sure the pan fits snugly within the space.
You also need to make sure the drain cut-out lines up and fits properly over the drain pipe. Screw the drain cover down into the shower pan. Some kits may require a short coupling piece to be attached to the bottom of the drain to attach the pan. If so, slip this into the drain pipe in the floor and use a compression gasket included to complete the seal. Level the pan. Confirm that the pan is aligned with the walls and the rest of your plan for the bathroom.
If it's not aligned correctly, your shower may leak, so it's important to ensure that the pan is level. Use a carpenter's level use some wood shims to level the pan, if necessary. Only minimal shimming should be needed, if the sub-floor is level. Once the pan is level, it's a good idea to mark the top of the pan lip where it meets the studs and the shim placement, if you need to move things later. Seal the pan with a thin line of caulk.
Draw a bead of caulk along the joint where the pan meets the floor, about the thickness of a piece of masking tape. Use just enough to coat and seal where nails or screws are used to attach the pan to the studs. You can wipe up accidental drips of caulk from the pan before they dry.
If you discover them after they dry, you can usually peel them up with your fingernail or a plastic putty knife. Method 4. Mark each panel according to the kit instructions. Each panel will need to be identified and marked clearly, to make sure you don't install the wrong panel in the wrong location—an easy mistake if you're working quickly.
Identify the panel that will be installed over the shower controls and fixtures and set it aside. Use your measurements of the fixtures on the wall where you're installing the shower and use these measurements to mark and cut the holes for the water control fixtures. Cutting the holes will be easier if you lay the panel across a couple of saw horses for this procedure.
Support the panel with a couple of 2 x 4's or a sheet of plywood so the panel does not bend excessively and break. Cut holes slowly with your hole saw. Test fit the panels. For some kits, the panels need to be installed in a particular order to make the seals plumb and make the unit more waterproof. It's best to pre-assemble the walls to make sure everything fits, running through the process once before you attach it with adhesive or wall screws. Read the instructions closely to find out whether or not this is true of your kit.
Test fit the panels in the order determined to make sure they fit together properly. Fit the bottom edge of the panels into the grooves of the pan. Shower pans are manufactured with either a grooved lip or a slightly offset lip around the pan where it makes contact with the walls. Exact-fit panels will slide or snap together. Do this in the order specified in the directions that are included with the kit. Variable-fit panels allow you to adjust the coverage along the long wall of your shower area.
Once in place and sealed, it appears to be a single panel. Prepare your panels for final installation. On the plus side, they tend to be solidly constructed and easier to clean. Interlocking multi-piece units will usually come in a set of four to six large pieces, including the shower pan the base area where you would stand in the shower and that connects to the drain , wall coverings for the side s where the unit will be mounted along the bathroom wall , side sections that will not be placed along the bathroom wall , and a door.
Quite a few of these kits are considered easy to assemble, and they generally cost much less than single-piece units. Purchase materials. There is an extensive list of materials that will have to be acquired in order to complete this project. Here is a partial list. Plumbing pipes and fittings. Not only do you need to make sure that you have enough pipe, you must also be certain to obtain the appropriate parts that will allow you to connect the new pipes to existing ones.
It is probably best to obtain a silicone-based sealant or caulk, a variety known for their resistance to water. Tools, such as wrenches and screwdrivers. Read the instructions that come with your shower unit or kit. While some provide very little detail, most will include instructions that explain how the shower will fit into place.
Even those that don't directly explain the process you must follow will certainly suggest what prerequisites are required for installation. Part 2. Clear and prepare the intended shower site. It may be preferable to remove bathroom tiles or other floor coverings and install the shower directly on the base of the floor itself. You must also identify the appropriate location for the drain hole--measure the shower pan to determine the location--and cut a hole through the floor.
If your plumbing is coming through a wall and not, say, a basement area in which the pipes are exposed, you must tear out the portions of the wall. Obviously, this must be one of your first steps. Build a frame to support the stall if applicable. Some shower kits will require that you build a structure to support the shower pan or even brace a whole prefabricated unit.
Oftentimes the unit will have to be screwed into place, and so you must build the required structures that will allow you to do so. Read the instructions carefully. Some multi-piece shower kits come with a kind of frame that will be used to hold up the sides. Again, go through the instructions that came with your kit before you install in order to determine how your shower stall will fit into your bathroom. Slide the pan or unit in place and attach it using screws.
Install the plumbing if you have not already done so. For some installations, this may have been the first task that was required. For others, it should be near the end. Follow these steps: Turn off the main water supply. Utilizing traditional plumbing methods, run hot and cold pipes to correspond with the holes for faucet handles in the shower stall. Attach the correctly threaded extension piping for the shower head, using thread seal tape and a pipe wrench.
Install the faucet handles and the shower head. Turn the main water supply on and check for leaks. Connect the drainage lines. Secure the drain pipe with the drain kit that either came with the unit or was purchased separately. The drain should be sealed with plumber's putty and tightened into place to prevent leakage.
For more on plumbing a bathroom, see guides here and here. Install the sides of the shower stall if applicable. Shower kits with multiple pieces will require this step, but it is one that really can be delayed until the project is nearly complete. If you don't want to work on plumbing inside of a tiny shower stall, chose to leave this step for the end.
For some kits, the side mounted to the wall will have to be screwed into place, while others just recommend that your use heavy duty caulk. Keep this in mind when purchasing your sealants, as some can also be used as adhesives.
Finish the project. Cover any exposed framing with water-resistant drywall and seal all seams that will be exposed to water with the silicone-based caulk. Texture and paint as desired. Attach the shower door or curtain. Plan on at least a full day, sometimes more if you're inexperienced.
Not Helpful 1 Helpful Not if it has one of its own. If it doesn't, then it's just a one-piece "surround" or "enclosure," and you will absolutely need a shower pan and the rest of the shower floor. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 5. No grout lines, no caulk, and no leaks. Just don't put anything metal on the shelves that rusts - sometimes only sanding can remove those marks. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 9. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
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