Next I sawed the shoulders of the rabbets on the end boards. Shoulders were sawn parallel to the angled ends of these boards. I then planed the upper and lower edges to match this bevel setting. The bottom was also fit while the pieces were temporary assembled. I had to keep in mind during this step that the face of the board with the narrower width resulting from this bevel goes on the underside of the piece. As Roy suggests in the book, I planed one edge and side to the bevel setting.
Then placing the nailed together carcass on the bottom piece while it was upside down i. I used my jack plane to then finish the bottom by planing to these lines.
I next prepared the piece for the handle laying out and sawing the taper on each end of the piece. When laying out the slope of the taper, I had to be sure it was not too steep as that would result in tenon too weak narrow once the tote was assembled and loaded with tools.
The waste remaining in this opening was chopped with a chisel. A rasp and sandpaper was used to smooth this opening. Mortises were chopped using a chisel. Mortise walls were first chopped to be square with the boards face. However, because the ends splay relative to the tenons in the handle the top and bottom of the mortise walls had to be bevel with careful chisel paring cuts to match the needed angle. This step required some fettling during assembly.
Once all pieces were cut, bevel angles defined, and mortise and tenons that secure the handle were complete, assembly of this piece is fairly strait forward. Just remember that the handle cannot be inserted after nailing of sides and ends is complete and that the bottom can simply be dropped into the carcass opening among its completion. To avoid splitting of the sides, headless brad cut nails and appropriate pilot holes were used to assemble the piece. Each rabbet joint was nailed from opposing sides through sides into the ends and through ends into the sides with four to five of the 4d nails.
This nailing approach seemed to yield a very secure tote. I appreciate the re-sawing effort. It looks like you did a good job with this — not an easy task. One question — Is there a specific beverage required to ensure proper alignment during re-sawing or will any generic brand work? Nice project! Like Like. You are commenting using your WordPress. It gets all banged up in use anyway so I didn't bother to be fancy about it. Shannon, Thanks for your great video and your comment.
I really enjoyed making the tote and find it very useful. I understand the hopper style construction and really like it. It was just the specific discussion at minute that I couldn't follow, as I said a mental block on my part I am sure.
My sides and ends are both cut at an angle but neither cut is compound the way you mark yours out. That was the only thing I couldn't figure out. As for the through tenon, I may be thinking about this wrong, but here is my reasoning. Since the force of the tools is downward it is all being applied to the top of the mortise on the end. Cedar splits very easily and I was afraid the end would split at that point. Since the force would be distributed along the upper semicircle of both dowels in that alternative, it seemed like it would be stronger.
I may well be thinking about this wrong though and would be interested in your observation. Of course, the fact that the dowels are easier and I am lazy played no part in my reasoning. Thursday, November 28, Tool tote. Now that I have a shop again, it's time to get back to woodworking. I feel like an athlete who didn't do anything in the off-season and needs to get back in shape, so I wanted to start with an easier project.
I can recall seeing my grandfather carry a similar tote when I was a child. The design of this tote is a classic, outstanding in form and function. The angled sides make it easy and convenient to access tools. I think that, in different sizes, it is ideal for lots of things other than woodworking tools, from gardening tools to knitting.
I decided to make a prototype from some alder I have. It is too short to fit full size handsaws, which I see as a requirement for a tool tote, but it will be useful for other purposes. I also decided to angle both sides because I don't like the look of the straight side and don't see how it would make the tote that much easier to carry.
I decided to go ahead and just make simple angles, see what was wrong when I put it together and hope I'd be able to saw or plane compound angles if necessary. As it turned out, I never did discover a need for them and am puzzled.
Shannon's design obviously differs from mine in some way. I decided to use an alternative that has worked well for me in the past.
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